Song Festival

Yesterday, the Song Festival (Dainų šventė) took place at the song stage in Vingis Park. While festival events have taken place over the entire weekend in Vilnius, this was the big event. Singing was a peaceful protest against the Soviets during the occupation, and song represents the survival of the Lithuanian culture during over fifty years of occupation. The festival was all about singing and peace; there were even iconic white birds used on stage and displayed at the entrance of the park.

"Lithuanian Song Celebration exalts the creative self-expression of the human being, creative potency of artists, vitality of national culture, love to the native land and the solidarity."
(www.dainusvente.lt)

On Kudirkos g. at Tauro Hill

Monday's events began with a parade from Cathedral Square at the bottom of Gediminas' Hill, where the medieval castle tower still stands today, and continued up Kudirkos g. along Tauro Hill where I got a great view of groups from all cities across the country marching to Vingis Park.

Traditional costumes

Group from Druskininkai with baskets of mushrooms
Vilnius Capital of Culture 2009 logo

King Mindaugas

There were tons of traditional costumes...

and lots of crowns of flowers.

All of the groups headed to Vingis Park's song stage for hours of singing and celebrating.

Vingis Park entrance

The park was recently renovated in preparation for the concert (repainted song stage, graded and reseeded lawn, new benches, repaved pedestrian paths), and it looked great.

This year, the song festival was particularly important, taking place on the anniversary of Grand Duke Mindaugas' coronation in 1253 and in the 1,000th year since the first mention of Lithuania.
A new sculpture was unveiled in Vingis Park to commemorate the milestone for Lithuania.

Millennium Tree of Unity

Inscribed in the lower circular portion of the monument are the names of important Lithuanians from grand dukes Mindaugas and Gediminas to Romas Kalanta (1953-1972) and Vytautas Kernagis (1951-2008).
Here are some clips from the all the singing:

Čiurlionis & Varnelis

M. K. Čiurlionis (1875-1911) . Sonata of the Stars. 1908.

This week I visited the National Gallery of Art to see the M.K. Čiurlionis exhibit: Dialogues of Colour and Sound. Find out more about the artist and composer here. The National Gallery is located on the right bank of the Neris river in the new downtown area, just above the future site of Zaha Hadid's Guggenheim-Hermitage Museum.
From 2005-2009 the building, originally constructed in 1980, underwent extensive renovations.
They added two administration buildings to the rear along Constitution Avenue that are actually tilted, and I can't say that I understand very well how the rooms inside would work given the angle and narrowness. It is similar to all new architecture in Vilnius as its functional space seems confusing, and from a distance the building is quite shocking. In the older main building, there are some really interesting interior spaces.
The exhibit was organized into several themes like the city, harmony with nature, night stars and music. There was a section of musical scores and small ink drawings displayed. The ink drawings highlighted the melody of a particular traditional Lithuanian folk song and were decoratively framed in a Nouveau style. There was also a listening section where you could select a Čiurlionis music file and it would play through headphones while an image of the score scrolled down a large flat-screen television.

Many of the Čiurlionis works were on loan from the National Čiurlionis Museum in Kaunas, which I visited last October. They have a really nice display of works there, and also have a newer wing with a concert hall where Čiurlionis' pieces are played.
It was a pleasure to see the works again. They are sort of juvenile and mystical, and I enjoyed seeing other artists' works, followers of the same artistic principles including the very popular E. Munch.

M. K. Čiurlionis . Ramybė

M. K. Čiurlionis . Rex.

M. K. Čiurlionis. Pasaulio sutvėrimas. 1905-1906

I also visited the Kazys Varnelis House-Museum, located on Didzioji g. on Town Hall Square. Varnelis, a modernist painter who spent most of his life in the US, returned to Lithuania after the restoration of independence. He gifted his entire collection of Lithuanian treasures and his own paintings to Lithuania in exchange for a life estate in a gorgeous building in the Old Town where he currently lives.

Susan, a Fulbrgiht scholar, and I had a private tour through the museum tour given by a local art historian. The tour began in the main foyer with displays of historic maps of Vilnius and Lithuania.

There were also some really nice family trees, all showing royal roots of course.

Most rooms also displayed the artist's collection of antique furniture.

Here are some of Varnelis' shaped canvases.The tour included the artist's studio, which he still uses today. The studio level was added on to the roof of the original structure, and you can see the gable of the neighboring house in the wall, quite Gothic!

Varnelis also collected some nice modern furniture.

The library collection of art books was phenomenal. Not only were there tons of art books and historic maps to browse, but there was also an extensive collection of books about Lithuania.
As my time in Vilnius nears an end, I am trying to get out and see more museums as well as enjoy all the Capital of Culture events. There is so much going on in the city nowadays, and the weather is perfect. The long days are also a treat; it stays light out until around 10:30pm!

Getting Published

This May, I had two articles published: one in a Lithuanian conference journal and the other in an American planning magazine.

At the beginning of May, I presented an article, "The Potential of New Urbanism in Vilnius" at the 2009 K. Šešelgio Readings conference held at Vilnius Gediminas Technical University. The conference featured a range of urban planning and design topics including the trends of sacred building construction in Lithuania, Klaipėda sea port development, creating multifunctional neighborhood centers, examining city edge patterns, and learning from 'dead' architecture projects.

A Latvian architect, Arne Riekstins, presented his article about the "Parametric Approach in Designing Large Scale Urban Architectural Objects". Arne's presentation dynamically described new methods in design that produce buildings like Gehry's Guggenheim in Bilbao.


As a second place winner, I received a book called Zervynu Kaimas detailing historic wood houses with photographs, sketches, and floor plans. It's a lovely book published in 1974 by K. Šešelgio, the namesake of the conference.

Equally exciting is the publication of my article on Vilnius, "Lithuania's Capital City Goes Modern," featured in the May 2009 issue of Urban Land Magazine.















Urban Land Magazine is distributed to over 40,000 members internationally. I hope that my article will spark interest in Vilnius among planners, developers, and maybe even potential tourists.

Jewish Vilna

Vilnius, or Vilna, was the center of Jewish thought, the Jerusalem of the North. It was said that "if one wants to do business, one has to go to Lodz, but if one wants to gain wisdom - one goes to Vilnius."

Dating back to 1388, Vytautas the Great invited Jews to settle in Lithuania. Exhibiting tolerance for different peoples' religious practices and origins was Vytautas' way of squelching the moral claims the Teutonic Knights held against pagan Lithuania in their attempts to convert Lithuania to Christianity. Jewish people from the Grand Duchy of Lithuania are known as Litvaks.

Lithuanian Jews experienced a somewhat free way of life with the ability to practice religion openly. Up until 1593, when they were permitted to own land, Jewish families could only rent homes. By the beginning of the 17th century, a Jewish quarter was formed in the Old Town in Vilnius, but there were restrictions. For example, homes along Vokieciu street were forbidden to have any windows facing the street. The block became an informal enclosed, defensive wall where Jewish life proceeded freely within.

Vilnius Census
1750: Jewish population 2,500
1789: Jewish population 5,000
1897: Jewish population 64,000
1923: Jewish population 55,000
1939: Jewish population 60,000
1940: Jewish population 80,000

This is the last Jewish synagogue left in Vilnius. Before World War II, Vilnius had 110 synagogues and 10 yeshivas.

The Choral Synagogue

Former location of the Great Synagogue

Eyliohu ben Shloyme-Zalmen (1720-1797), known as the Gaon of Vilna, lived in the blue building below. The Gaon is most famous for his extensive writings about the Babylonian Talmud, a book of Jewish laws, ethics, customs and history dating back to 200 c.e.

In 1939, the Soviet Union returned Vilnius to Lithuania (Vilnius was annexed to Poland in 1918), and in 1940 Lithuania was annexed to the Soviet Union. Polish Jews fled to Lithuania in hopes for a better life, creating a total national Jewish population of a half million. But the Soviets instituted a Russification banning all non-Russian languages and cultures to complete the unification of the Soviet states. In 1941, Nazis invaded Lithuania, implementing the annihilation of all Jews in Lithuania; ninety percent were killed.

Despite losing almost all of its population, the Litvak community managed to withstand annihilation from the Nazis and Russification from the Soviets. In the late 1980s, during perestroika and glasnost, Litvaks were ready to take advantage of the cultural openness and regenerate their traditions.

In 1990, when Lithuania declared independence, the Republic of Lithuania mandated equal rights for all minorities including Jews, and laws were passed abolishing discrimination and supporting the reestablishment of Jewish cultural life. Jewish schools and the Jewish State Museum were opened in addition to the Center for Judaic studies at Vilnius University and the Judaic section at Martynas M. Mazhvydas National Library. The Centre for Stateless Cultures housed at Vilnius University studies the heritage of Lithuanian national communities: Lithuanian Tartars, Karaites, Roma, Litvaks, etc.

Today, however, Lithuania is considered one of the most intolerant states in the EU. The Capital of Culture events kicked off at the Sports Palace, a soviet building constructed on a desecrated Jewish cemetery. This is also the location where new apartment buildings were permitted for construction. Antisemitism runs high in Lithuania and other former-Soviet countries. In August 2008, the Vilnius Jewish community center was vandalized: swastikas were spray-painted on the building. It is partially an issue rooted in Nazi-ism. It was the Nazis who liberated Lithuania from the Soviets in 1941, even though they were handed back to the Soviets in 1944. And Lithuanian Jews were more likely to side with the Soviets over the Nazis, were likely to kill them.

In 2008, the US Congress urged Lithuania to end the prosecution of anti-Nazi Jewish partisans. Prominent Jewish community historians and leaders in Vilnius were being indicted for war crimes (for their anti-Nazi or "pro-Soviet" resistance). On May 18, 2008, a statement was made by the Conference of the Lithuanian Jewish Community addressing antisemitism and xenophobia in Lithuania and concerns over the restitution of Jewish community property and the prosecution of Jewish partisans.

Five Years in the EU

Today is International Labor Day, but more importantly, today marks the 5th anniversary of Lithuania's membership in the European Union. According to last autumn's "Eurobarometer", 69 percent of Lithuanians are happy with EU membership. The relationship has helped the economy grow quickly, but Lithuania has not yet satisfied the requirements set by the EU to adopt the Euro. Prime Minister Andrius Kubilius estimates the switch sometime in 2010.

Lithuania has been hit hard by the current global economic crisis. The unemployment rate is at 10% in a country just over 3.5 million people. During this difficult time, it is comforting to have the protections and support of the EU.

Lithuania and its Baltic neighbors just signed a Memorandum of Understanding for the construction of an electricity bridge from Sweden as a solution to the closure of the Ignalina Power Plant, a nuclear plant that provides a majority of power to Lithuania. This project will create a common Baltic electricity market and eliminate dependence on Russian energy. The EU has earmarked 175 million euros for the planned power link.

The Lithuanian GDP shrank by 12.6% in the first quarter of 2009 as compared to 2008. Lithuania has projected a 10.5% yearly decline in GDP, but on a quarter-to-quarter basis the decline was 9.5%. According to the BBC, Lithuania's Prime Minister Andrius Kubilius hopes that next year we show a much lower GDP decrease or even stability in GDP. Lithuania is forecasting that the GDP will not improve until 2011.

Lithuania is cutting public spending as the economy contracts, but the next step is to request a loan from the IMF in June. Latvia was approved for IMF loans in December but doesn't anticipate distribution until June, 2009. According to the Financial Times, the Fund "has suspended lending to Latvia until it sees more progress in cutting public spending" and "Latvia is racing to prepare more cuts to keep its $9.9 billion stabilisation plan on track ... [as] the budget deficit threatens to overshoot the target of 5 % of gross domestic product agreed with the IMF."

Regardless of the economic struggles around the world, it is shocking to think that Lithuania became part of the EU only five years ago. Vilnius is such a westernized city that one would think it had always been part of western Europe.

Architects of Air

As part of the European Capital of Culture, British artist and Architects-of-Air creator Alan Parkinson has installed several exhibits in Vilnius. Below are photos from the Amococo exhibit at the White Bridge on the future location of Zaha Hadid's Guggenheim-Hermitage Museum.

Domes illuminate the inside of the pods creating kaleidoscope-like ceiling patterns.Ambient music, recorded by Lithuanian musicians, played throughout the installation. In some nodes, groups of people sat around talking, taking pictures, passing the time.


While the sculpture was not at all attractive on the outside and cluttered the river bank, the interior spaces were quite interesting and the installation was very popular.

Kiev, Ukraine

In late March, I took a trip to Kiev, Ukraine. I was so delightfully surprised with the city, which had tons of nice public spaces, beautiful architecture and great mass transit. The weather was sunny and warm, the people were very cheerful and friendly. I was very lucky to have a local friend lead me to all the great spots around the city.

Lenin Square

This boulevard park dedicated to Lenin has a dramatic tree-lined pedestrian promenade with lots of benches. The only drawback is that it extends for a very long block, is surrounded by knee-height metal railings (to prevent jaywalking), and is only accessible via underground pedestrian tunnel.

Pedestrian tunnel / Metro access

Admittedly, I am against pedestrian tunnels, and Kiev has one at almost every intersection. Disconnecting pedestrian and automobile traffic prioritizes the automobile. I prefer that cars always be on the lookout for people. The elimination of their interaction allows cars to travel at higher speeds and makes for noisy sidewalks and more intimidated pedestrians. Pedestrian tunnels can be interesting informal spaces for small shops and informal markets, but inevitably they smell like urine, appear unclean, dark and dangerous, and become gathering places for drunks and vagrants. Did I mention you can drink alcohol on the streets in Kiev?

Metro Station

The 3-line metro system is really convenient and the metro stations are all quite impressive. Similar to the system in Saint Petersburg, the stations in Kiev are architectural palaces for the people.

Traveling further down the line into the suburbs, the stations are less deep and more modern. Apparently, Americans were not the only ones freaked out during the Cold War; the Soviets built the metro stations to double as nuclear bomb shelters. The stations were built extremely far underground and equipped with meter-thick metal bomb shelter doors.

Monument to the Brotherhood of Nations

The weather was great most of the weekend and everyone was out soaking up the sun. At the Brotherhood of Nations monument, people relaxed on the steps drinking beer with friends. The overlook area was very crowded and reminded me a bit of the Plaza Mayor in Madrid. People of all ages were walking around, dressed to impress.

Park Overlook

When I first though of visiting Kiev, I had no idea how big it was; over 4 million residents. And I really got the sense of the scale of the city when walking down the main boulevard and soaking up the architecture; the scale of Soviet-era buildings is impressive!

Khreshchatyk Street

On weekends on the 6-lane Khreshchatyk street becomes pedestrian-only. It is one of the most impressive streets because it features monumental Soviet-era architecture along with popular city landmarks like Independence Plaza, the Monument to Independence and the city's central market. Independence Plaza is known as the location of the 2004 Orange Revolution, where protests led to a runoff election between Yanukovich and now-President Yushchenko (whose presidential campaign color was orange). I was a bit surprised that this prominent plaza is littered with massive rooftop advertising.

Independence Plaza

There are numerous churches and monasteries in Kiev. Built in the 18th-century, St. Andrew's church sits on a hill with views of the Dniper River.

St. Andrew's Church

The area around St. Andrews has an outdoor market. One street features only paintings, and the main street (below) has lots of great kitschy souvenirs.

St. Andrew's Rise

Along the Dniper River, Mariinsky Park is a lovely place on a sunny afternoon. From Khreshchatyk Park, where the Brotherhood of Nations monument stands, you can connect directly to paths of Mariinsky Park. There are many intimately landscaped areas to sit and soak up the sun and enjoy a bit of nature in the city. Most people stroll through the paths chatting with friends, or sit on a bench sipping a beer. It is the epitome of leisure!

Mariinsky Park

Park amphitheater

On a pedestrian bridge connecting the two parks, couples inscribe their names on a lock, lock it onto the bridge, and toss the key below. I think this must be a Soviet tradition because I have seen this same tradition in Riga and Vilnius.

Bridge locks

St. Michael's Monastery complex dates back to the 11th-century and is still in use today. However, the bright blue church was destroyed by the Soviets in 1934, so what exists today is the 1990s reconstruction. While walking around, taking pictures, there were church services underway and monks walking around in their long black robes.

Saint Michael's Monastery complex

St. Sofia's Monastery complex also dates back to the 11th-century and was the original religious and cultural center of the Rus. I imagine this made it even harder for the Russian-Soviets when Ukraine gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1990.

St. Sofia's Monastery complex

Babi Yar is the site where over 30,000 people were shot and dumped into a ravine on September 29th and 30th, 1941. It is estimated that another 200,000 Ukrainians were later killed or buried alive in this location. There is a park in between the ravine and the first monument of Babi Yar erected by the Soviets.

Babi Yar
Jewish Memorial

Soviet Memorial

Memorial for children killed at Babi Yar

On the way to the airport, I stopped by the Chernobyl Museum, recounting the April 26, 1986 nuclear reactor meltdown (near the Belarus border). Looking at the map of the contaminated areas was so disturbing. More contaminated areas are in Belarus, and some areas with elevated radiation levels, where winds had carried radioactive materials, extended almost to Vilnius! There were a number of towns where people (over 45,000 in Pripyat alone) had to leave their homes immediately and never return. Over the weeks after the explosion, over 100,000 people were evacuated from the 30-km radius around the reactor. Check out more on Chernobyl here.

Ukrainians certainly have a hard history with the Holocaust, the Famine, the Chernobyl accident, and the current loss of hope in the Orange Revolution's ability to overcome deep rooted corruption. But in spite of a morosely depressing national history, Ukrainians are cheerful and warm, and Kiev is a magical city to visit. I hope to return again someday soon!